Cooking Tips
We settled this age-old question of crustacean categorization.
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Published Today.
Whenever my family ordered Chinese takeout when I was a kid, I always had one request: prawns with beef and broccoli.
I ate the dish in a very specific way. First, I’d peek inside all the takeout boxes until I found my quarry. Then, I’d open the box, releasing that gingery, oyster-sauce-scented steam, root around in it with a spoon, and ruthlessly steal every prawn for myself.
To me, the beef and broccoli were nothing compared to those prawns. They were pink and plump, with irresistible snap and succulence.
They were also huge—I’d cut them in half with my fork and eat them in two bites in order to savor them as long as I could.
Because of that dish, I thus always assumed that prawns were a bigger and sweeter type of crustacean.
But I recently found out that isn’t true. There is no scientific distinction between a “prawn” and a “shrimp.” Both labels, in fact, are colloquial terms without any taxonomic basis.
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What Are Shrimp? What Are Prawns?
Whether labeled shrimp or prawn, all such creatures are swimming freshwater or saltwater crustaceans with stalk-eyes, tails, whiskers, and slender legs.
Taxonomically, they are (mostly, with some exceptions) decapod crustaceans, like crabs and lobsters.
Over 70 different species are sold commercially in the United States. Different species may have different anatomical features, including size, shape, and gill structures, along with different sweetness levels. Whether any given species is called shrimp or prawn tends to vary by region.
“Prawn” is a term often used in the Southern United States, for example, while Northerners might refer to the same specimen as “shrimp.”
In Britain and in many Asian countries, it’s all about size: Small crustaceans are called shrimp; larger ones, prawns.
The bottom line? The terms “shrimp” and “prawn” do not reliably tell you anything about the crustacean they’re describing. Furthermore, neither has an actual scientific definition. They are effectively synonyms for the same shellfish.
How to Buy Shrimp/Prawns
Shop based on size, not label.
Because the labels “shrimp” and “prawn” are not particularly meaningful, we recommend looking past those labels and shopping for the crustaceans based on the count per pound (which indicates size) to ensure that the cook times in your recipe will be accurate.
To learn more about count per pound, watch the video below.
Buy frozen.
Unless you have access to shrimp directly from a boat, we recommend buying them frozen. The quality is generally much better than that of defrosted shrimp, the flavor and texture of which decline rapidly once thawed.
Check the ingredient list.
“Shrimp” (or “prawns”) should be the only ingredient listed on the bag or box. In effort to prevent darkening or water loss during thawing, some manufacturers add salt or STPP (sodium tripolyphosphate). Our tasters found an unpleasant texture in salt-treated and STPP-enhanced shellfish; the latter also had a chemical taste.
Look for wild.
We’ve found that wild shrimp have a sweeter flavor and firmer texture than farm-raised, making their higher price worth it.
For more information on shopping for this shellfish, consult this article.
Tips for Cooking the Best Shrimp/Prawns
For better browning, opt for 21/25.
Extra-large shrimp (21/25) are our go-to when we want a browned exterior. This count is the most widely available in stores, and the shrimp’s meaty size allows them to stay on the heat longer before turning rubbery.
Before cooking, toss with salt and baking soda.
The pretreatment alters the protein structure of the flesh, helping it retain moisture when it’s exposed to high heat. It also seasons the flesh deeply and evenly. For 1½-2 pounds of extra-large or jumbo shrimp, season with ½ teaspoon kosher salt and 1 teaspoon baking soda and refrigerate them for 15 to 30 minutes.
Sprinkle with sugar.
Seasoning your shrimp with just a pinch of sugar before pan-searing boosts browning and underscores sweetness.
Skewer them efficiently.
When grilling shrimp on skewers, alternate the directions of their heads and tails so they can be pressed tightly together. That way, they’ll insulate each other from the grill’s flame.
Use residual heat to avoid overcooking.
Shrimp can turn rubbery in a flash. The gentlest way to cook them is to cut the flame and use residual heat, a method we employ in the seafood stews zarzuela and moqueca.
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